My love affair with France began nearly 20 years ago, during a whirlwind three-week tour of Europe that included two magical days in Paris and a brief stay at a château outside Lyon. We visited 11 countries on that trip, yet France is the one I’ve returned to again and again.
Three years later I was back, eager for that once-in-a-lifetime meal Julia Child described after tasting sole meunière at La Couronne. I ate well, but the lightning-bolt moment never came.
Seven years ago, it finally did: an unforgettable food crawl across Paris with friends that ended in a chance encounter with Ina and Jeffrey Garten at Verjus (read more about that adventure here). This June, Alex and I returned and added even more favorites to the list.
Some of you have been asking for my Paris restaurant picks, and while I’ve only scratched the surface, here are the spots that stole my heart in the City of Light. Bon appétit!
A couple of caveats about this list:
- The quality of a restaurant can change quickly, so I’ve noted the last time I visited each spot. If my visit was during a 2018 trip, I recommend doing a bit of research to make sure it still feels like a good fit for you.
- While every restaurant on this list is a favorite, I’ve ranked them within each section – my all-time favorites are listed at the top.
- If you saw a restaurant on my Instagram stories but don’t see it here, it likely didn’t make the cut. The restaurant business is hard enough without me adding my negative reviews.
- Menus change regularly and seasonally, so there’s no guarantee you’ll find the exact dishes I had.
I’ve mapped them all here, and here are all the recommendations I received.
JUMP TO:
RESTAURANTS, CAFES, & BISTROS
Verjus
Modern French | 52 Rue de Richelieu, 1st Arrondissement
Food: ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ (5/5)
Service: ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ (5/5)
Ambiance: ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ (5/5)
Price: $$$
If I could recommend only one meal in Paris, it would be Verjus – and I’m clearly not the only fan: on our last visit I bumped into Ina & Jeffrey, and Beyoncé and Jay-Z have enjoyed the private upstairs dining room. Opened in 2011 by the American duo Braden Perkins and Laura Adrian, Verjus offers a seasonal farm-to-table tasting menu built around produce from their own garden outside the city. The multi-course meal is inventive without ever feeling fussy, and at €98 it’s one of the best-value tasting menus of this caliber in town. The softly lit dining room feels more like a stylish friend’s living room than a formal restaurant, and the small team creates and warm and inviting atmosphere. If you can’t snag a reservation, head down to their bar à vins (first-come, first-served) for some small bites and wine. May 2018 + June 2025
Open: Monday to Friday for dinner, Friday for lunch
Reservations: Available here 3 months in advance
Meal Highlights: It’s constantly changing but on our two trips there wasn’t a miss.
What others have to say: Yelp: 4.4 | Google: 4.6 | Trip Advisor: 4.5 | Ruth Reichl
Clamato
Seafood | 80 Rue de Charonne, 11th Arrondissement
Food: ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ (5/5)
Service: ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ (5/5)
Ambiance: ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ (5/5)
Price: $$$
After several 4am mornings trying (and failing) to snag a reservation at Septime, I gave up and turned to its sister restaurant, Clamato – which ended up being an amazing backup plan. As a bonus, it’s open on Sundays when many other spots are closed. I recommend arriving right when they open. They’ll take your number and text you when your table’s ready, so you’re free to explore the neighborhood in the meantime. Many people head to Septime La Cave for a pre-dinner drink, but since it was packed, we wandered down the street to L’Ingénu for a glass of wine instead. Thankfully, our table was ready in just 30 minutes. The menu changes daily, so you probably won’t find the exact dishes we had, but if the skate wing is on offer, don’t skip it. It was the standout dish of our entire trip. I was practically licking the plate. The vibe was cozy, lively, and easily the most fun dinner we had in Paris. May 2018
Open: 7 days a week for lunch and dinner
Reservations: Does not accept
Meal Highlights: Mackerel ceviche, oysters, Anchovy beignets with black olive sauce, skate wing, pork belly and cockles, and maple syrup tart with Chantilly cream
What others have to say: Yelp: 4.4 | Google: 4.4 | Trip Advisor: 4.2 | Michelin
Le Bon Georges
Bistro | 45 rue Saint-Georges, 9th Arrondissement
Food: ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ (5/5)
Service: ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ (5/5)
Ambiance: ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ (5/5)
Price $$$
Le Bon Georges wasn’t even on my radar for our 2018 trip, but this time around, it was one of the most frequently recommended – and I can see why. The cozy interior gives off classic bistro charm, while the menu offers French comfort dishes that are tweaked just enough to feel both nostalgic and modern. The service was phenomenal, and the wine list seriously impressive (if a bit overwhelming). We let the sommelier choose for us based on our preferences, and she nailed it. No surprise they just earned Wine Spectator’s 2025 Grand Award. June 2025
Open: 7 days a week for lunch & dinner
Reservations: Available here 6 months in advance
Meal Highlights: White Asparagus with Hollandaise, Beef Tartare with Fries, Pâté en Croûte de Canard, Saint Honoré
What others have to say: Yelp: 4.3 | Google: 4.5 | Trip Advisor: 4.2 | David Lebovitz
Juveniles Wine Bar
Bistro | 47 Rue de Richelieu, 1st Arrondissement
Food: ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ (5/5)
Service: ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ (5/5)
Ambiance: ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ (5/5)
Price: $$
Tucked just steps from the Palais-Royal, this pint-sized bistro and wine bar is tailor-made for a lingering lunch or a romantic, low-key dinner. I arrived right when they opened and snagged a table before the room filled up – within an hour, every seat was taken. I settled in with a book and a glass of wine, starting with a pork-and-mushroom terrine, followed by French white asparagus dressed in a vinaigrette à l’œuf mollet with fresh herbs and Parmesan. The perfect afternoon. May 2018
Open: Tuesday to Saturday for lunch and dinner
Reservations: Available here one month in advance
Meal Highlights: pork & mushroom terrine; French white asparagus in a vinaigrette à l’œuf mollet with fresh herbs and parmesan
What others have to say: Yelp: 4.2 | Google: 4.7 | Trip Advisor: 4.6 | Eater | David Lebovitz
Les Enfant Rouges
Modern French | 9 Rue de Beauce, 3rd Arrondissement
Food: ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ (5/5)
Service: ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ (5/5)
Ambiance: ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ (5/5)
Price: $$
A friend recommended this spot tucked away on an unassuming street in the Marais – you really have to know it’s there, as we almost walked right past, mistaking it for an alley. Japanese chef Dai Shinozuka serves up a beautifully executed, seasonal menu. Both Alex and I agreed: if we lived in Paris, this would be our go-to spot for casual lunches, whether together or solo. June 2025
Open: Thursday to Monday for dinner, Friday to Monday for lunch
Reservations: Available here 5 weeks in advance
Meal Highlights: Foie Gras, Seared Bluefin Tuna, Vol-Au-Vant
What others have to say: Yelp: 4.1 | Google: 4.5 | Trip Advisor: 4.5 | David Lebovitz
Kubri
Lebanese | 108, rue Amelot, 11th Arrondissement
Food: ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ (5/5)
Service: ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ (5/5)
Ambiance: ⭐⭐⭐⭐ (4/5)
Price: $$
I bookmarked this restaurant after reading about the fabulous dinner David Lebovitz and Deb Perelman had there. After canceling a tasting menu with mixed reviews, I lucked into a late Friday night reservation – and I’m still dreaming about the meal! As someone who typically avoids ordering chicken at restaurants (I make a pretty great one at home), the Lala Roast Chicken completely blew me away. It’s easily one of the top five chicken dishes I’ve ever had – paired with an intensely garlicky toum and a heavenly green sauce. They also serve up some seriously delicious vegetables. June 2025
Open: Tuesday to Saturday for lunch and dinner
Reservations: Available here far in advance
Meal Highlights: Lala Roast Chicken, Leek Hummus, Eggplant Shwarma
What others have to say: Yelp: NA | Google: 4.8 | Trip Advisor: 4.7 | CNT
Mokonuts
International | 5 rue Saint Bernard, 11th Arrondissement
Food: ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ (5/5)
Service: ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ (5/5)
Ambiance: ⭐⭐⭐⭐ (4/5)
Price: $$
Reservations for this gem are tough to come by, but when I spotted one just a few hours after we landed in Paris, I grabbed it and prayed our flight would be on time. Thankfully, we made it with moments to spare. Tucked away on a quiet side street near Faidherbe-Chaligny, this tiny restaurant is run entirely by husband-and-wife team Omar Koreitem and Moko Hirayama. Omar handles the savory dishes while Moko works her magic on the pastries. The moment you step through the mint-green façade, it feels like you’ve been invited into their home kitchen. If you can’t snag a reservation, try their nearby bakery and café, Mokochaya, or Mokoloco, which hosts pop-ups from visiting chefs. And if Paris isn’t in your travel plans, good news: their debut cookbook is coming out this fall! June 2025
Open: Monday to Friday for lunch
Reservations: A must. Available here four weeks in advance
Meal Highlights: Labneh with Cucumbers, Risotto with Zucchini and Pecorino, Filet Mignon of Pork, Black Sesame Coconut Ice Cream with Blueberries
What others have to say: Yelp: 5 | Google: 4.7 | Trip Advisor: 4.5 | David Lebovitz | NYT
Bistrot Paul Bert
Bistro | 18 Rue Paul Bert, 11th Arrondissement
Food: ⭐⭐⭐⭐ (4/5)
Service: ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ (5/5)
Ambiance: ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ (5/5)
Price: $$
A perennial favorite that earns every rave. It’s a charming bistro, and the cooking is hearty and deeply satisfying. We went for the €41 prix-fixe (though I’m not sure it’s still on offer): I kicked things off with a pork terrine (this one wasn’t my personal fave, but the crisp salad alongside it nearly made up for it), then dove into the best steak tartare of my life, and wrapped it all up with a divine Paris-Brest. Bonus: Ina and Jeffrey have been spotted here more than once – always a good sign. May 2018
Open: Tuesday to Saturday for lunch & dinner
Reservations: Book several days in advance by calling +33 (0) 1 43 72 24 01
Meal Highlights: Steak Tartare, Paris Brest
What others have to say: Yelp: 3.7 | Google: 4.2 | Trip Advisor: 3.8 | David Lebovitz | CNT | Michelin
Le Fumoir
French restaurant | 6 Rue de l’Amiral de Coligny, 1st Arrondissement
Food: ⭐⭐⭐⭐ (4/5)
Service: ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ (5/5)
Ambiance: ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ (5/5)
Price: $$
This spot wasn’t on my radar, but it’s long been one of Alex’s favorites. We stopped by for lunch after a morning shopping in the Marais and loved our meal. If you’re at the Louvre and the hunger pains strike, this reasonably priced place is right across the street! Le Fumoir is a welcome escape from the tourist crush, with dark wood paneling, leather club chairs, and book-lined shelves that give it a cozy, Art-Deco-meets-library vibe. They serve up classic french fare with a twist. June 2025
Open: 7 days a week for breakfast, lunch and dinner
Reservations: Available here 10 months in advance
Meal Highlights: Beef Tartare with kimchi vinaigrette, Porchetta with chanterelles and cabbage, Salad de pommes de terre
What others have to say: Yelp: 3.8 | Google: 4.4 | Trip Advisor: 4.1
Café de Flore
Café | 172 Boulevard Saint-Germain, 6th Arrondissement
Food: ⭐⭐⭐⭐ (4/5)
Service: ⭐⭐⭐⭐ (4/5)
Ambiance: ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ (5/5)
Price: $$
On the last night of our 2018 trip, we opted for a few classic – if slightly touristy – spots. First up was Café de Flore, one of Paris’s oldest coffee houses and a legendary haunt for writers, philosophers, and artists (Picasso among them). Ina Garten once told Fodor’s, “My idea of the perfect meal in Paris is an omelet and a glass of champagne at Flore. To just sit outside at 10 o’clock at night is wonderful.” Inspired, I kept it simple with a crock of French onion soup and a glass of wine. It’s pricey, but I still recommend stopping in for a coffee, a light nibble, or a drink – if only to experience this iconic Paris institution and get in some people watching. May 2018
Open: 7 days a week, 7:30am to 2am
Reservations: Not available
Meal Highlights: Come for the ambiance and a drink
What others have to say: Yelp: 3.5 | Google: 3.9 | Trip Advisor: 4.6
Chez Julien
Brasserie | 1 Rue du Pont Louis-Philippe, 4th Arrondissement
Food: ⭐⭐⭐⭐ (4/5)
Service: ⭐⭐⭐ (3/5)
Ambiance: ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ (5/5)
Price: $$$
My husband adored this beautiful brasserie during his fashion-industry days, so we chose it for our farewell dinner in Paris. He worried it might not match his memories, but – hiccups aside – it still delivered. We grabbed a table on the terrace, yet despite the restaurant being quiet, service was slow to start; we had to flag someone down before things picked up. The foie gras and our entrees were excellent, but the crème brûlée was bordering on overcooked, so I’d skip it next time. With the Seine just steps away, a post-dinner stroll along the river is the perfect finale. June 2025
Open: 7 days a week for breakfast, lunch and dinner
Reservations: Available here far in advance
Meal Highlights: Black Truffle Foie Gras; Truffled Linguine with Caviar, Chateaubriand with pepper sauce
What others have to say: Yelp: 3.3 | Google: 4.1 | Trip Advisor: 3.8
Paris Restaurant Bucket List: Bistrot Des Tournelles, L’Avant Comptoir, Septime, Restaurant Georgette, L’Ami Jean, and La Crèmerie
BOULANGERIES, PATISSERIES & ICE CREAM
Poilâne/Comptoir Poilâne
Bakery/Breakfast | 8 Rue du Cherche-Midi, 6th Arrondissement
Founded in 1932, Poilâne is a legendary bakery that has remained in the same family for three generations. Today, it’s run by Apollonia Poilâne. A celebrated baker and cookbook author in her own right, Apollonia is also a close friend of Ina’s. Ina has called Poilâne her absolute favorite place in Paris. In fact, when she and Jeffrey were apartment-hunting in the city, Ina told their realtor that any home they chose must be within walking distance of the bakery. When she’s not in Paris, Ina has Poilâne bread shipped to her home in East Hampton – freezing it in quarters so she can always have some on hand. Next door you’ll find Comptoir Poilâne. A great little spot for coffee and tartines – we visited back in 2018, but on this past trip they were closed for several months. May 2018
Open: Monday to Saturday
Meal Highlights: tarte pomme, sourdough bread, shortbread cookies, Tartine Petit Dejeuner (at comptoir)
Aurélie Ribay Boulangère
Boulangerie | 36 bis Rue de Dunkerque, 10th Arrondissement
A friend told me this was their favorite bakery in Paris, so with a train to catch at the nearby Gare de l’Est, we stopped in for a few treats – and I think it might be my new favorite, too. Perfect for a pre-train pastry run. June 2025
Open: Tuesday to Saturday
Highlights: Almond Croissant, Ham & Cheese Quiche, Apple Tart
Petite Île Boulangerie
Boulangerie | 8 Rue des Filles du Calvaire, 3rd Arrondissement
Opened in 2022 by Taiwanese husband-and-wife duo Po-Hsuan Chuang and Chih-Ya Wang, Petite Île (“little island” – a nod to their home country) has quickly become one of the Marais’ most talked-about bakeries. They sell solid bread and inventive takes on classic French baked goods. June 2025
Open: Tuesday to Sunday
Highlights: Black Sesame Pain au Chocolat, Ham & Cheese Croissant
Boulangerie-Pâtisserie Terroirs d’Avenir
Boulangerie | 3 Rue du Nil, 2nd Arrondissement
When someone mentioned this as one of their favorite spots, I looked it up and realized it was just a five-minute walk from our Airbnb. It’s such a gem – right on the same street as Frenchie, one of Ina Garten’s Paris favorites. The kouign amann was out of this world. June 2025
Open: Tuesday to Sunday
Highlights: Kouign amann, Ham & Cheese Quiche
Tartine & Co Louvre
Boulangerie | 6 Rue Jean-Jacques Rousseau, 1st Arrondissement
On our last morning in Paris, I went to a bakery I’d been dying to try, while Alex picked up almond croissants from his favorite spot, Tartine & Co. My choice? A major letdown. But his pick ended up being some of the best almond croissants we had on the entire trip. I can only vouch for the almond croissants though! June 2025
Open: 7 days a week
Highlights: Almond Croissants
Berthillon
Ice cream | 31 Rue Saint-Louis en l’Île, 4th Arrondissement
After visiting Notre-Dame, take a leisurely 10-minute stroll across the Pont Saint-Louis to reach this world-famous ice cream shop on Île Saint-Louis. Ina was so inspired by a mango sorbet she had here that she created her own version for Barefoot in Paris. One of her and Jeffrey’s favorite flavors is the prune and Armagnac ice cream, which they love to pair with an apple tart from Poilâne. Berthillon closes for the entire month of August – can you imagine an American ice cream shop shutting down during peak summer? Now that’s having your Parisian priorities in order. You’ll see a lot of places with Berthillon in the name nearby , but make sure you go to the address above! June 2025
Open: Wednesday to Sunday
Highlights: Pistachio, Hazelnut
FOOD SHOPS
G. Detou
Specialty food store | 58 Rue Tiquetonne, 2nd Arrondissement
This might be my favorite store in all of Paris! It’s packed with every imaginable food item you could dream of – chocolates, jams, condiments, oils, extracts, nuts, anchovies, baking and decorating supplies. A true cook’s paradise, and the prices are surprisingly reasonable. I picked up six Madagascar vanilla beans for just 10 euros! On this last trip, I also visited their neighboring shop, which is stocked with even more treasures – from Bordier butter (don’t miss the onion flavor!) to terrines, foie gras, and other chilled or prepared foods.
Open: Monday to Saturday
E. Dehillerin
Kitchen supplies | 18-20 Rue Coquillière, 1st Arrondissement
This famous cookware shop has been around since 1820 and is a no frills experience set up like a hardware shop. They seem to have everything you’d ever need. It was a favorite of Julia Child’s, and Ina has also been known to shop there.
Open: Monday to Saturday
La Fermette
Cheese shop | 86 Rue Montorgueil, 1st Arrondissement
I fell in love with this cheese paradise on my last trip to Paris – and completely by chance, we ended up booking our Airbnb in the very same building this time around. The friendly staff is happy to help you find the perfect cheese for your taste, and the selection is incredible. If you’re feeling overwhelmed by all the options, just grab one of their cheese plates: €9 for a generous sampling of five cheeses.
Open: Tuesday to Sunday
La Grande Épicerie de Paris
Gourmet grocery store | 38, rue de Sèvres, 7th Arrondissement
This massive gourmet store is one of Ina’s favorites – and now one of mine, too. It offers an extraordinary selection of foods, from truffle oil and cheese to meats, veggies, pâtisserie and wine.
Open: 7 days a week
Merci
Boutique | 111 Bd Beaumarchais, 3rd Arrondissement
I usually hate shopping (unless it involves food, of course), but when Alex brought me to Merci in the Marais, I was completely won over. You enter either through their cozy coffee shop or down an alley that opens into a beautiful courtyard, then explore three floors filled with apparel, books, home goods, jewelry, and chotchkes.
Open: 7 days a week
This may be my favorite street in all of Paris. Located in Les Halles, it’s packed with fruit and vegetable stands, flower shops, boucheries, fromageries, pâtisseries, and boulangeries. While it can be a bit touristy, there’s a certain charm to hearing a band play French music as you shop for dinner or picnic supplies. We stayed on this street, and nothing brought me more joy than hopping from shop to shop to put together an epic French lunch in our Airbnb.
WHERE WE STAYED
I knew I wanted to stay on Rue Montorgueil for this trip and was thrilled to find this listing on Airbnb. Fair warning: it’s a five-floor walk-up, but you’ll be rewarded with the cutest studio and an incredible view. I loved waking up early, sipping espresso with the windows open, and listening to Paris slowly come to life.
OTHER RESOURCES
- My Ultimate Guide to Ina Garten’s Paris shared every spot that Ina has mentioned that I could find publicly!
- David Lebovitz, Eater, CNT are goldmines for recommendations
Have any other recommendations? Leave a comment – it’s never too early to start planning my next trip back!
