My love affair with France started 11 years ago on a two-day tour of Paris and a short stay at a chateau outside of Lyon that was part of a 3-week whirlwind tour of Europe. We saw 11 countries on that trip, but the one I kept coming back to was France. Returning 3 years later, I enjoyed some good food but never had that meal I would never forget. I wanted the same feeling Julia Child had when she first tried sole meunière at La Couronne on her first day in France.
Feeling inspired by an afternoon reading, sipping wine, and devouring foie gras and a Fraicheur salad last fall at A La Folie Cafe in Miami of all places, I decided I had to return to the City of Light and do the food scene right. I was determined to go alone if I had to, but luckily my friends Robby, Max, and Mari were along for the adventure.
I spent the next 6 months fielding recommendations and researching restaurants for what turned out to be one of the most memorable and perfect trips I’ve ever had – the icing on the cake was running into Ina and Jeffrey at Verjus (read about that here).
I’ve had a number of people ask for my Paris restaurant recommendations and while I was only able to skim the surface during our 5-day stay, below is a thorough rundown of every food adventure we got into. Bon appetit!
Frenchie To Go
9 Rue du Nil 75002 Paris
Phone: +33 1 40 26 23 43
Open: 7 days a week
Reservations: Not needed
When Ina says her last meal on earth would be at a particular restaurant, you make that the number one priority on your food list! Ina told Today Food that the hot dog from Frenchie To Go and a side of fries would be that meal. The more casual sister restaurant to Chef Greg Marchand’s Frenchie next door, is a great spot to grab a quick bite. You may remember Greg from Ina’s Barefoot Contessa in Paris Part Deux — Ina stopped by to make a lobster roll.
We had the homemade hot dog with a side of fries and it really lived up to the high bar set by Ina. I can’t wait to come back and try other favorites like their ruben, pulled pork sandwiches, and homemade ginger beer!
Vandermeersch
278 Avenue Daumesnil 75012 Paris
Phone: +33 1 43 47 21 66
Closed on Sunday and Monday
I added this to my list after reading rave reviews about their delectable kouglof cakes from David Lebowitz and Wendy Lyn. Being only a block away from the Bois de Vincennes, it’s off the beaten path which means you won’t find a ton of tourists. Worried that I’d miss my chance to get a kouglof, I arrived around 7:30 am on Saturday and found the place empty! I ordered pain au chocolat, pain au pistache, croissant, and the sweet kouglof. Unfortunately, they didn’t have any of their highly rated millefeuille (the beginning of a trend on this trip). My expectations for the kouglof may have been too high – it was a bit on the dry side. But the croissant, pain au chocolat, and pistache were the best I had the whole trip. Definitely worth the journey.
I recommend grabbing some early morning treats and an espresso before heading over to the Temple Romantique de l’île de Reuilly in Bois de Vincennes for a peaceful breakfast surrounded by nature.
Rue Montorgueil
This may be my favorite street in all of Paris. Located in the Les Halles, it’s jam-packed with fruit & veggie stands, flower shops, boucheries, fromageries, patisseries, and boulangeries. While it can be touristy, there was a certain charm to the band playing French music on the street while I picked up some delicious goodies for a picnic in the park. Below are some of the highlights in and around Rue Montorgueil:
- E. Dehillerin – This famous cookware shop has been around since 1820 and is a no frills experience set up like a hardware shop. They seem to have everything thing you’d ever need. It was a favorite of Julia Child’s, and Ina has also been known to shop there.
- G. Detou – this small old-school store is filled with every imaginable foodstuff your heart desires. Chocolates, jams, condiments, oils, foie gras, extracts, nuts, anchovies, baking and decorating supplies – this is a cook’s dream and the prices are reasonable. I picked up Madagascar vanilla beans – 8 for 16 euro!!
- Paul – OK so this is a chain all over Paris, but that doesn’t mean their baguettes aren’t amazing. Make sure you grab one fresh out of the oven – there is nothing like a warm baguette that steams when you rip off the end.
- La Fermette – This is cheese heaven! A friendly staff will help you pick out the perfect cheese for your taste and there are plenty of options. I got a selection of delicious Roquefort, brie, comte, chevre and tried mimolette for the first time.
- Stohrer – Opened in 1730 on Rue Montorgueil, this is the oldest patisserie in Paris. By the time I reached Stohrer, I was so full on sweet treats and baguettes that I didn’t end up getting their famous baba au rhum. Window shopping was a small consolation, but I’ll be back!
- Au Pied du Cochon – Although I didn’t make it inside this one, I’d be remiss not to mention it. It’s not on Rue Montorgueil, but this 24-hour institution is supposed to be a great place for late-night eats. Julia Child came here for a midnight snack of soup a l’oignon. If you’re up for it, try the Temptation of Saint Anthony (pig’s ear, trotter, tail, and belly with bearnaise sauce)
Juveniles Wine Bar
47 Rue de Richelieu
Phone: 01.42.97.46.49
Closed Sunday and Monday
Reservations: By phone
I had read a couple of recommendations for this small restaurant near the Palais Royal. It’s a cozy place that’s perfect for lunch or a romantic dinner.
I arrived right when they opened and was able to snag a seat, the place quickly filled up over the next hour. I settled down with my book, a glass of wine, and feasted on pork & mushroom terrine and French white asparagus in a vinaigrette a l’oeuf mollet with fresh herbs and parmesan.
I stopped by Salon du fromage Hisada next door because I heard they carried the Jean-Yves Bordier butter that I’ve been dying to try, but they stopped carrying it in favor of smaller batch butter – they recommended demi-sel Au Bon Beurre (which literally translates to “the good butter”). And I have to say it was phenomenal, the best we had on a trip where we ate butter by the carload.
Bistrot Paul Bert
18 Rue Paul Bert
Phone: +33 1 43 72 24 01
Closed Sunday and Monday
Reservations: Book several days in advance by calling
This classic bistro was recommended by nearly everyone I spoke to and after eating there I can understand why! It has an old-school, classic bistro vibe with a hearty menu that’s filling and absolutely delicious. We all did the 41 euro prix fixe menu – I had the pig head terrine (learning that I’m not a fan of pig head, but the salad served with it was divine), the steak tartare ( best I’ve ever had), and the Paris Brest (a huge profiterole-like dessert). Ina and Jeffrey were spotted here earlier this month.
Ellsworth
34 Rue de Richelieu 75001 Paris
Phone: +33 1 42 60 59 66
Open 7 days a week
Reservations: Online here
This casual spot (and sister restaurant to Verjus) was on a number of “best of” lists, especially for their Sunday brunch. It was also featured on Barefoot Contessa in Paris Part Deux – Ina makes sea bream ceviche with chef Braden Perkins. The menu consists of small shareable plates and their signature fried chicken. We had: Ricotta Donuts, Whey Caramel, Vanilla; French Toast, Apple Compote, Creme Diplomat; Potatoes, Chorizo, Raw Cream; 2 orders of Fried Chicken, Pickles, Buttermilk; and Pork Belly, Carrot with Orange, Cured Egg Yolk. Everything was delicious.
Clamato
80 Rue de Charonne, 75011 Paris
Phone: +33 1 43 72 74 53
Closed Monday and Tuesday
Reservations: Not accepted
After days of getting up at 4am to try and snag a reservation at Septime, I gave up and decided to try it’s sister restaurant Clamato. As a bonus, it’s open on Sunday when many other restaurants are closed. I’d recommend arriving as soon as they open. They take your phone number so you are free to explore the neighborhood while you wait. Lots of people head to Septime Cave, but seeing that it was packed, we went down the street to L’ingénu for a glass of wine. Luckily, our table was ready in a half hour.
We kicked off our meal by trying a natural wine for the first time – it was called Susucaru and we loved it. No two days are the same on the menu, so they likely won’t have the dishes we tried. We ordered Mackerel ceviche, oysters, Anchovy beignets with black olive sauce, skate wing, pork belly and cockles, and maple syrup tart with chantilly cream.
The skate wing was my single favorite dish of the entire trip – I was licking the bones. The atmosphere is lively, cozy and this was the most fun dinner we had. Having an amazing waiter only made it better. Ask for Jimmy if you can!
L’As du Fallafel
32-34 Rue des Rosiers, 75004 Paris
Phone: +33 1 48 87 63 60
Closed Saturday
Reservation: Not needed
Monday was pretty rainy so we stayed close to our Airbnb and decided to try L’As du Fallafel. We read about this being the best fallafel in the city and it definitely lived up to the hype. It did have a touristy vibe, with people on the street beckoning you to come eat there, but once you’re settled in and burying your face in a massive, messy pita filled with deliciousness, you’ll be happy you didn’t pass it up.
Café de Flore
172 Boulevard Saint-Germain, 75006 Paris
Phone: +33 1 45 48 55 26
Open 7 Days a week
Reservations: Not need
On our final night of the trip, we decided to go to some classic (if touristy) spots. Cafe de Flore is one of the oldest coffee houses in the city and has been frequented by famous writers, philosophers, and artists including Pablo Picasso. Ina told Fodor’s: “My idea of the perfect meal in Paris is an omelet and a glass of champagne at Flore. To just sit outside at 10 o’clock at night is wonderful.” I kept it simple with french onion soup and a glass of wine. My millefeuille-less trip continued as they had just run out of the delicate layered treat. It was a bit pricey, but I definitely recommend stopping here for a coffee, small nibble, or glass of wine.
Brasserie Lipp
151 Boulevard Saint-Germain, 75006 Paris
Phone: +33 1 45 48 53 91
Open 7 days a week
Reservation: Not needed
Since I couldn’t get a millefeuille for dessert, we decided to check out another historical institution across the street: Brasserie Lipp. The restaurant was featured prominently in Ernest Hemingway‘s memoir “A Moveable Feast.” The interiors are charming and don’t look like they’ve changed much since the place opened. I was excited to see millefeuille on the menu, but of course, when our waiter arrived, he let us know they just ran out – told you there was a trend. I decided to go with the ice cream stuffed profiteroles, which were a wonderful consolation dessert.
Next, we headed to the Eiffel Tower to see it sparkling at midnight. We didn’t plan ahead so purchased a questionable bottle of champagne for 10 euros and sipped in the Parc du Champ de Mars. It was the perfect cap to the entire trip.
Comptoir Poilâne
8 Rue du Cherche-Midi, 75006 Paris
Phone: +33 1 45 48 45 69
Open 7 days a week
Reservation: Not needed
Before catching our plane back to New York, we had to make one final stop at an Ina favorite: Poilâne. We had cafe americanos and the Tartine Petit Dejeuner (avocado toast with an egg) which was so tasty. We passed by the bakery afterward where I bought a slice of their famous sourdough bread and tart pomme to eat in Luxembourg Garden.
Markets Shopping and Cooking Experience in Paris
If you haven’t checked out Airbnb Experiences, I highly recommend it. That’s where we found an experience that was one of the highlights of our trip: Market to Table at St Germain des Prés.
Our host was the impossibly chic and funny Eleonora Galasso, an author, chef, and tv personality. We started the day sipping coffee at a local cafe, then made our way to the fruit and vegetable market and boulangerie to grab the final ingredients to make lunch back at Eleonora’s apartment.
On the way to her gorgeous apartment, she provided lovely anecdotes about the neighborhood and a little history of Saint-Germain-des-Prés.
After arriving, we filed into her kitchen where we helped make chicken with peppers, a hearty endive/pomegranate salad, and a heavenly crème fouettée. We didn’t do much of the heavy lifting (some chopping, some whipping, etc), but it was a fun experience. The meal was simple yet delicious and Eleonora was a wonderful host. Don’t miss this!
Other Places
- Poulette – 3 Rue Étienne Marcel, 75001 Paris. Around the corner from our Airbnb, we stopped here for drinks. It’s a cute place with delicious cocktails. Reviews seem pretty good for food as well.
- Café des 2 Moulins – 15 Rue Lepic, 75018 Paris. If you’re a fan of the movie Amelie, this is a must. The cafe features prominently in the film. I wouldn’t do a whole meal here, but we had to stop for a glass of wine and to crack a creme brulee in honor of Amelie!
- Vin et Marée – 165 Rue Saint Honoré, 75001 Paris
- Les Marronniers – 18 Rue des Archives, 75004 Paris
- Julia Child’s Apartment – 81 rue de l’Université
Tips and Resources
- For Ina’s guide to Paris, check out Afar, Fodors, Food Network and Today.
- Two websites I found extremely reliable and helpful were David Lebovitz’s blog and Wendy Lyn’s Paris is My Kitchen.
- Many restaurants don’t take online reservations, but many that do can be made through La Fourchette.
- If you’d like to call to make reservations, I’d recommend getting a Google Voice account. You download the app, get a number, add money to your account and then as long as you are connected to wireless you can call Paris for 1 cent a minute! It’s a steal considering Verizon was going to charge $1.99 a minute.
I had about 60 restaurants on my list to try and five days in Paris – so there’s a lot we didn’t get to. These are at the top of my list for the next time I’m in town.
- Au Pied de Cochon
- L’Avant Comptoir
- Du Pain et des Idées
- Frenchie
- Septime
- Derrierre
- Huitrerie Régis
- Clown Bar
- Pamela Popo
- Hollybelly
Have any other recommendations? I’d love to hear them. Never too early to start planning my next trip back!
This is amazing – thank you!