I can’t believe it’s been over two weeks since we returned from Thailand – the 17 days Nathan, Louis, Robby and I spent exploring this beautiful country already feel like a distant memory. TAKE ME BACK! It was a vacation of a lifetime with the perfect balance of relaxation, adventure, food, culture and partying. Several of you asked for our itinerary, so I thought sharing my favorite parts of the trip on the blog would be easiest – and it gives me an excuse to re-live the trip. I hope you find it helpful and please reach out if you have any questions!
xoxo
Trent
PHUKET
HOW MANY DAYS: 3
WHERE WE STAYED: Grand Two-Bedroom Pool Villa at Banyan Tree. On the pricier side but gorgeous villas with a private pool, epic breakfast buffets, quick access to the beach, lots of amenities.
FAVORITE RESTAURANTS:
- Saffron – On our first night, we were too exhausted to leave Banyan Tree, so decided to check out the resort’s restaurant. I was able to stay awake long enough to enjoy the spiciest (and most delicious) curries of the trip: Gaeng Kati Puu Gub Bai Cha Plu (Red curry with crab meat, boiled egg and Thai vermicelli).
- Raya – This restaurant was recommended on several blogs and the Michelin Bib Gourmand list. While there wasn’t much to Old Phuket Town, it was well worth the trip for this restaurant alone – it was the best meal we had in Phuket! It’s located on the ground floor of a charming 130-year old house. We ate family-style with my favorite dishes being: Kaeng Pu Bai Cha Plu (Crab meat with curry and coconut), Mu Hong (Slow braised pork belly with pepper and onion), Pad Kra Pao (Stir-fried pork with holy basil), vegetable fried rice.
- Pad Thai Street Stand in front of the Banana Walk Shopping Mall in Patong – A couple bucks for the most amazing Shrimp Pad Thai I’ve ever had!
- Chilli Kitchen – I ate more pork on this trip than at any point in my life … and I loved every moment of it. Especially loved the Krapao Moo Krob (stir-fried crispy pork with chili, garlic, and basil leaf) at this restaurant near Banyan Tree.
PHUKET NOTES:
- We only spent 5 hours in Patong and agreed it was the least enjoyable part of our trip. Mobbed by tourists – it felt like the Bourbon Street of Thailand.
- One of the highlights of our time in Phuket was a boat trip through Phang Nga Bay with Amazing Canoeing. The tour took us on canoe trips around Panak Island (where a monkey hopped on one of the canoes!) and Hong Island, swimming at Nakae Island, and finally a stop on James Bond Island. The staff was amazing (I particularly enjoyed the impromptu performance of “My Heart Will Go On”). They served a tasty Thai lunch onboard as we sipped Chang beers and floated through the gorgeous surroundings. Our day concluded with a ladyboy show as we headed back to the pier. It was a day none of us will soon forget!
KHAO SOK
HOW MANY DAYS: 3
WHERE WE STAYED: Elephant Hills Safari
FAVORITE RESTAURANTS: Meals were provided
KHAO SOK NOTES: Khao Sok is a national park several hours north of Phuket and our stay at Elephant Hills Safari was the absolute highlight of the vacation! Highly recommend by my co-worker, we rearrange our entire trip to grab the last four spots they had available during our two-week visit to Thailand (So book now!!)
We went with the 3 day, 2-night safari over Christmas! We spent the first day at the elephant sanctuary – hanging out with elephants, giving them a bath, and preparing one of their many daily meals. I nearly forfeited my passport and settled into my new life as an elephant caterer. Haha. After the elephants, we canoed down the Sok River – through a landscape straight out of Jurassic Park! Absolutely breathtaking.
We woke up early the following morning and made our way to a local market in Takun – where I had a snack that nearly brought me to tears: deep-fried banana from a street vendor. One bite instantly transported me back to my friend’s kitchen growing up – his Vietnamese grandma made us the most divine fried bananas and this was the closest I’ve tasted since.
Our packed day continued with a longtail boat ride on Cheow Larn Lake to the floating Rainforest Camp. Once we arrived, we unpacked, ate lunch and then had a quick swim in the lake. Later in the afternoon, we ventured out on a jungle hike to a cave where the giant spiders, snakes, and bats we saw will forever haunt me. The team at Elephant Hills spoiled us that night with a huge Christmas dinner feast followed by a visit from Santa and gifts.
On the final day, we went on an early morning kayak trip, had one last swim in the lake, and were on our way to Krabi with so many great memories from this fabulous experience!
KRABI
HOW MANY DAYS: 3
WHERE WE STAYED: Andakiri Pool Villa – we chose this location because of the views of the Andaman Sea and the balcony pool – a great spot to pop a bottle of champagne and watch the sunset!
FAVORITE RESTAURANTS:
- Thai Local – I had my second favorite papaya salad of the trip (the dish was a minor obsession!) at this restaurant a short walk from Railay Beach.
- Krabi Town Night Market – Only open on Friday, Saturday and Sunday, this is a must-do if you’re in Krabi! Tons of stalls selling clothes, souvenirs and most importantly FOOD: meat on sticks, charred octopus, quail eggs, rainbow grilled cheese, fried crab and octopus balls and so so so much more.
KRABI NOTES:
- Durian – this isn’t Krabi specific, but I finally tasted this Southeast Asian fruit known for its vomitous smell here. AND IT DOES SMELL HORRIBLE. Someone described it as smelling like a wet dog fart. Just imagine a smelly, trash-strewn NYC street in the heat of August and you’ll get an idea. So bad, it’s often banned in hotels, condominiums, public transportation, etc. But once you get past the smell, many people love the flavor and custardy texture. I knew I had to try it in Thailand – and while it wasn’t nearly as bad as I thought it would be, it’s not great. The worst part was the trash burps I had for the rest of the evening!
- Railay Beach – We made the short longtail boat trip from Ao Nang to Railay Beach on our first day in Krabi. We loved the beach but take a short walk over to Phra Nang Beach which is even better. Crystal clear water, white sand, caves to swim in, and rock climbing. It may be packed but it was gorgeous.
- Four Island Tour – This is a popular route for day-trippers from Krabi. You don’t need to book advance – just head to the Ao Nang Longtail Boat Service Club buy the tickets for your preferred route and you’re escorted to your private longtail for the day! We started our trip around 9am but I’d recommend going earlier, as we had a moment of peace on each island before they started filling up! We stopped at Tup Island, Chicken Island, Ko Poda, and Railay Beach. Ko Poda was a dream and for the first half-hour, it was nearly deserted. We enjoyed banana mango smoothies in peace on the beach before the invasion happened!
BANGKOK
HOW MANY DAYS: 3
WHERE WE STAYED: Amara Bangkok – small but comfortable rooms, a beautiful rooftop pool and close walking distance to the gay neighborhood of Bangkok.
FAVORITE RESTAURANTS
- Nahm – We ate a lot of street food on this trip, but we also wanted to check out some of the fine dining Bangkok had to offer! Thankfully, my friend Robby booked this Michelin-starred restaurant and we went all out with the Discovery Tasting Menu! Served family-style, we loved the modern spin on some traditional Thai dishes. Some of my favorites included: blue swimmer crab, coriander and pickled garlic on rice crackers with peanuts; ceviche of wild amberjack and white turmeric; THE BEST tom yum soup I’ve ever tasted; burnt relish served with charcoal-grilled Wagyu beef; southern yellow curry of blue swimmer crab with betel leaves and calamansi; jungle curry of pork, herbs, and toasted rice; and stir-fried young fiddlehead ferns! It was a pricey meal, but an equivalent meal in New York would have been hundreds of dollars more!
- Eat Me – We decided to take a breather from full-on Thai food for one night and Eater recommended this fusion restaurant that was a stellar pick – Eater rarely steers me wrong with its recommendations! The vibe is relaxed, the space is chic and the food is YUM. Some of the meal highlights: Laab Moo – a drink with vodka, mint, shallot, cilantro, roasted rice, lime and serrano ham (perfection); Sea Urchin Bruschetta; Grilled Veal Tongue, Spicy Wagyu Tartare “Laab”; Duck Confit with duck egg and bacon jam; Chargrilled Asparagus; and Australian Wagyu Beef Tenderloin.
- Som Tam Jae So – Because there are so many great food options in Bangkok and we were only there for 3 days, I spent most of my afternoons peeling off from the group for second lunches and this one was my favorite. Another Eater recommendation, this unassuming restaurant on a quiet side street is a favorite of locals. Known for its Som Tam (spicy papaya salad), the menu is in Thai so I did a lot of pointing but decided on the papaya salad and Pik Gai yang (barbecue chicken wings). The papaya salad was the spiciest I had on the trip and I LOVED every mouthing-numbing moment. A big bottle of Chang beer helped cool my mouth in between bites. Don’t miss this treasure on your trip to Bangkok!
- Ped Prachak – This was another second lunch fav! The restaurant has been serving its legendary duck for more than a century. I enjoyed the duck alongside a bowl of Ba Mee Boo (egg noodles topped with crab). I think my whole meal was under $5, and I left completely satisfied!
BANGKOK NOTES:
- Nearly everyone we spoke to prior to our trip said to limit our time in Bangkok but we absolutely adored it. It was the only leg of the trip we really wish we had a day or two more to explore. There is just so much to see, do and eat. And if you’re gay, the nightlife is everything – including amahzing drag shows at The Stanger Bar.
- Jay Fai – If you’re as obsessed with Chef’s Table as I am, you likely saw Jay Fai’s episode of Street Food. She’s the first Michelin-rated street food vendor in Bangkok. I heard the lines here can stretch for hours, so given our short time in Bangkok decided to forgo one of her famous crab omelets. I was, however, able to stop by and nerd out while watching her cook! I learned right before the trip (which was too late for me) that you can make reservations by emailing jayfaibangkok@gmail.com. Give it a shot and let me know if you snag one! I’m coming with you.
CHIANG MAI
HOW MANY DAYS: 3
WHERE WE STAYED: Bodhi Serene – enjoyed this tranquil spot with a rooftop pool within the Old City, but I think I’d stay in a neighborhood with a little more energy like Nimmanhaemin next time.
FAVORITE RESTAURANTS:
- Khao Soi Arak – The number of recommendations for the “best” khao soi in Chiang Mai had me overwhelmed. If you’re unfamiliar, khao soi is a classic coconut curry noodle soup in Northern Thailand and an absolute must-have if you’re visiting. With limited time (and stomach space), I read everything I could to determine the best one to try. In the end, giving up and blindly pointing to the map to choose. Lucky for me, Khao Soi Arak did not disappoint! Their pork khao soi was one of the most soul-satisfying soups I’ve ever encountered. Creamy coconut curry broth, egg noodles, pork balls, topped with crispy noodles, cilantro, chili oil, and pickled mustard greens. It was a complex dish with so many flavors and textures. I’ve officially joined the khao soi cult!
- Khao Kha Moo Chang Phueak – If you saw the Chiang Mai episode of Anthony Bourdain’s Part’s Unknown, you’ll recognize the woman in the cowboy hat cooking up large quantities of Khao Kha Moo (pork leg). We stop by for dinner and were quickly sat at the tables behind her. I ordered pork leg with rice and an egg and the meat was melt-in-your-mouth tender with a flavor-packed sauce. You never know if the quality will go down after a place has gotten popular, but this lived up to the hype.
- Cuisine de Garden– We celebrated Nathan’s birthday on our final night in Thailand with a 12-course tasting menu at this cute spot in southern Chiang Mai. The presentation was impressive and the food divine – with plenty of surprises and interesting combos along the way! Some highlights: Crustacean with Finger Lime Caviar; Fig + Halloumi topped with Catfish Bacon, Fermented Fish Tartine, Buk Siam Fish with Green Mustard Leaves, and Coffee Glazed Pork Belly. We loved figuring out which of the dessert rocks were edible! It was the perfect wrap to an insane two weeks.
CHIANG MAI NOTES:
-
Pha Lat Temple– On your way to or from Wat Phra That Doi Suthep – stop by this temple. It was my favorite one we saw on the trip!
- Thai Secret Cooking School – The highlight of our time in Chiang Mai was our full-day cooking class at Thai Secret Cooking School. Our instructor, May, taught us a ton about Thai ingredients and cooking while keeping us laughing the entire day. We kicked off the day with a tour of a local market where May introduced us to Thai ingredients, including her favorite fish sauce, which unfortunately you can’t get in the States (shakes fist at FDA!). From the market, we made our way to May’s house nestled among farmland to get cooking – the surroundings were unlike any we could have gotten at a cooking class in town. We kicked off our day picking herbs from her garden followed by a refreshing butterfly pea juice with Thai rum chaser.
We each got to choose an appetizer, stir fry, soup, curry, and dessert to make (each category had three options!) I loved that we weren’t tied to a specific menu, allowing us to cook what we were craving. May and her team seamlessly guided all of us through the various dishes we selected. I chose Yum Nua Yang (Beef Salad), Pad Ka Pao (Minced Pork with Holy Basil), Tom Yum Gung (Hot & Sour Prawn Soup), Gang Massaman Gai (Massaman Curry with Chicken) and Gluey Thod (Deep Fried Bananas).
The food was delicious and we left with plenty of new skills to make our favorite Thai dishes – which I put to good use this weekend making papaya salad and khao soi. It was such a memorable experience and if you are ever in Chiang Mai make sure you book this class.
THE THAI RECIPES I MADE THIS WEEK
Now let’s get to the real reason you probably came here. 😉 This past weekend I tried to recreate some of the tastes from our trip to Thailand! Both were good recipes, but the Khao Soi was so phenomenal. If you’re in New York City, you can get a lot of the hard-to-find ingredients for Thai cooking at Bangkok Center Grocery in Chinatown. The staff is super helpful if you let them know what you’re making! Enjoy!
- Real-Deal Khao Soi Gai (Northern Thai Coconut Curry Noodle Soup With Chicken), J. Kenju Lopez-Alt | Serious Eats
Notes: 1.) Make sure you have a large mortar and pestle – my tiny one didn’t suffice and the pounding of the ingredients into curry paste took FOREVER. 2.) Don’t skip the toppings! Pickled Mustard Greens, crispy noodles and chili oil are a must in my opinion.
- Spicy Green Papaya Salad, Andy Ricker | Food & Wine.
Notes: 1.) Make sure you have a mandoline that has the proper blade for this. We had to hand-cut the papaya and surprising how long it actually takes! 2.) I prefer my papaya salad very spicy. The one Thai bird chili didn’t cut it for me. I’ll likely add 3 next time.
